electrical box screw I am in the process of replacing electrical outlets in my newly purchased home (wife wanted white instead of cream). In the process I have found several that have the hole where the screw goes into the electrical box broken not allowing me the screw the outlet into the box. Discover Company Info on MIDWEST METAL FABRICATORS, LTD. in Wapakoneta, OH, such as Contacts, Addresses, Reviews, and Registered Agent.
0 · screw size for outlet box
1 · screw size for electrical outlet
2 · screw for electrical box mount
3 · replacement screws for electrical sockets
4 · ground screws for electrical box
5 · electrical screw size chart
6 · electrical box screw sizes chart
7 · electrical box replacement screws
GMAW-S gives low heat and makes it easy to use in all positions on sheet metal, low carbon steel, low alloy steel, and stainless steel sheet metal from 25 gauge (0.02 inch or 0.5 mm) to 12 gauge (0.1 inches or 2.6 mm).
The most common size screw to use in an electric box is a 6-32 flathead screw. For heavier applications, like ceiling lighting and ceiling fans, an 8-32 screw will work better. Ground screws in electrical boxes are always 10-32 . I am in the process of replacing electrical outlets in my newly purchased home (wife wanted white instead of cream). In the process I have found several that have the hole where the screw goes into the electrical box broken not allowing me the screw the outlet into the box.
I would replace the box, but then, I can DIY so I don't have to pay the electrician. You could try a #8 or #10 (whichever one would make good threads in the hole) self-tapping screw, but make sure it's a short enough one that it will not bottom out on the screw that is . I need additional screws for several electrical boxes, some mounting a fixture, some for switches, some for covers. I just want to buy some boxes of machine screws to cover the various sizes of commonly used screws in electrical boxes and fixtures. I think the threads on the most common screws are 6/32, 8/32 and 10/32.
When I went to attach the bracket to the electrical box, one screw was fine, but the other hole was stripped. When I climbed in the attic to check how the box was mounted to see if it could be easily changed, it's nailed to the beam and going to be difficult to remove. A friend mentioned rethreading the hole. Whats the best way to fix this? If the box is a round type, as commonly used for ceiling lights, then an 8-32 screw would be appropriate. If the box is rectangular, as used for wiring devices (switch, outlet, etc) then a 6-32 screw is what you will need. I have successfully used coarse thread #6 drywall type screws in both type of boxes . :whistling2: I've used a torx type screw tip on occasions. Find one that fits and tap it in with a few good wacks. Try getting it out first by hand (low torque), a power drill (high torque) will continue to damage the screw head. The hacksaw or Sawzall methods would be the next step. Used galvanized, or any other screw rated for exterior use. Hello from the looks of it the box you have is an old work gangable box. I dont believe the removable side plates are meant to be a mounting point. To mount these types of boxes, madison clips are usually used. The madison clips keeps the box from coming out of the wall and the flaps on the front of the box keep the box from going in the wall.
I have a couple of the cheap plastic light fixtures for an unfinished storage area that basically are just a bulb socket that mounts to the plastic electrical box. As everything is plastic except the terminals, there is nowhere on the fixtures to connect the ground. There are just the two terminals, neutral and hot. What do I do with the ground?
1) The screw heads for the box mounting tabs stick out back the rest of the dimples on the back of the box. Consequently, this makes the top-right and bottom-left diagonals where the mounting tabs are tight to the wall, but then leaves a big enough gap behind the other two diagonals to allow the box to "rock".
The 2 horizontal screws weren't flush to the sconce metal plate, so I tried to adjust them and screw them in tighter. This was when I found that the screws were barely holding anything, because the plastic screw holes were cracked and the screws could easily be pulled out. Just for an example, the mounting box looks sort of like this. I am in the process of replacing electrical outlets in my newly purchased home (wife wanted white instead of cream). In the process I have found several that have the hole where the screw goes into the electrical box broken not allowing me the screw the outlet into the box. I would replace the box, but then, I can DIY so I don't have to pay the electrician. You could try a #8 or #10 (whichever one would make good threads in the hole) self-tapping screw, but make sure it's a short enough one that it will not bottom out on the screw that is . I need additional screws for several electrical boxes, some mounting a fixture, some for switches, some for covers. I just want to buy some boxes of machine screws to cover the various sizes of commonly used screws in electrical boxes and fixtures. I think the threads on the most common screws are 6/32, 8/32 and 10/32.
When I went to attach the bracket to the electrical box, one screw was fine, but the other hole was stripped. When I climbed in the attic to check how the box was mounted to see if it could be easily changed, it's nailed to the beam and going to be difficult to remove. A friend mentioned rethreading the hole. Whats the best way to fix this? If the box is a round type, as commonly used for ceiling lights, then an 8-32 screw would be appropriate. If the box is rectangular, as used for wiring devices (switch, outlet, etc) then a 6-32 screw is what you will need. I have successfully used coarse thread #6 drywall type screws in both type of boxes . :whistling2: I've used a torx type screw tip on occasions. Find one that fits and tap it in with a few good wacks. Try getting it out first by hand (low torque), a power drill (high torque) will continue to damage the screw head. The hacksaw or Sawzall methods would be the next step. Used galvanized, or any other screw rated for exterior use. Hello from the looks of it the box you have is an old work gangable box. I dont believe the removable side plates are meant to be a mounting point. To mount these types of boxes, madison clips are usually used. The madison clips keeps the box from coming out of the wall and the flaps on the front of the box keep the box from going in the wall.
I have a couple of the cheap plastic light fixtures for an unfinished storage area that basically are just a bulb socket that mounts to the plastic electrical box. As everything is plastic except the terminals, there is nowhere on the fixtures to connect the ground. There are just the two terminals, neutral and hot. What do I do with the ground? 1) The screw heads for the box mounting tabs stick out back the rest of the dimples on the back of the box. Consequently, this makes the top-right and bottom-left diagonals where the mounting tabs are tight to the wall, but then leaves a big enough gap behind the other two diagonals to allow the box to "rock".
screw size for outlet box
screw size for electrical outlet
screw for electrical box mount
replacement screws for electrical sockets
ground screws for electrical box
The second choice would be 6013 on DCEN or AC. I ran a short (4") 18 ga. lap joint with a 1/16" 6013 (40-45 amps) using AC last week just to see if I could still do it. Looked as good if not better than what you normally get with .030 flux core.
electrical box screw|ground screws for electrical box