electrical box too close to king stud spacer block Problem is- exactly where I want to put the electrical box to hang the wall light is a wall 2×4 stud. what can I do – use one of those thinner electrical boxes and cut out part of the . Shoot the junction box on the floor above it with the Electric to unlock it. While it turns out to be a dead end, you can look for similar scrapes to find something more. On the second floor, to the right of the entrance (facing the doors), is another door.
0 · stud in wall where elect box goes??
1 · electrical
2 · deep boxes
3 · Panel replacement, studs too close together
4 · How to solve this deep box? : r/AskElectricians
5 · Electrical box recessed too far : r/HomeImprovement
6 · Can I notch 1/2” from a stud to fit a 3 gang box in between two studs?
7 · Boxes recessed too deep
You have 2 junction boxes, the battery junction box which is located under the hood on the driver's side near the brake master cylinder, and the central junction box which is located under the driver's side of the dash.
If I mount the light switch box directly to the king stud of the doorway, the door trim will interfere with the switch plate, so I wanted to bump the box out by putting a short scrap of .
I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, . That is why some electricians go to trouble to nail a spacer block on every stud with a plastic box. The dry wall man will not likely jump over extra 1.5 " from where he has been . Problem is- exactly where I want to put the electrical box to hang the wall light is a wall 2×4 stud. what can I do – use one of those thinner electrical boxes and cut out part of the .
Reinstall screws using sppropriate thickness spacers. Yes, I use regular nuts as shims that are just slightly larger than the bolts that secure the switches. Just slide the required nuts over the bolts until the switch is the correct distance . I have this box that is already 5/8” behind the drywall somehow, and it’s going behind a backsplash that will probably add another 1/2” deep. I saw some spacers to install . I've had luck just beating the side of the studs with a hammer or small sledge. The studs will slide over. The drywall will tear a bit where the screws are. but this is easily fixed . The wall does go perpendicular to the steel beam, but it’s on the top floor and above it is an attic with nothing above but a roof. So I am assuming it’s not a load bearing wall. .
If I mount the light switch box directly to the king stud of the doorway, the door trim will interfere with the switch plate, so I wanted to bump the box out by putting a short scrap of 2x4 between the box and the king stud. Is there anything in the NEC that prohibits that? That's common practice. I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall. There are boxes made that are of a thicker material and less likely to flex. Others have a tab on the side away from the stud that a false stud can be screwed to to support the far side. For larger gang boxes there are support wires that attach to the studs.
That is why some electricians go to trouble to nail a spacer block on every stud with a plastic box. The dry wall man will not likely jump over extra 1.5 " from where he has been hitting a stud. With an air nailer and box of blocks it doesnt take much time Problem is- exactly where I want to put the electrical box to hang the wall light is a wall 2×4 stud. what can I do – use one of those thinner electrical boxes and cut out part of the face of the stud with Mr Sawzall? Or use a round 1/2" deep pan box & cut out drywall only and mount to the stud surface . I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with the switchplate? If the door is designed to swing into the structure you may want to reconsider the idea of placing an electrical outlet right next to the hinge side of the door jamb. Things plugged in there could get pinched as the door swung all the way in.
Most likely reason for a deeper setback is drywall not being tight to stud. mudded, and painted..and the drywall screws pop through. If I recall, boxes like this provide several tabs for several potential drywall depths. It's essential to use the right one.
Reinstall screws using sppropriate thickness spacers. Yes, I use regular nuts as shims that are just slightly larger than the bolts that secure the switches. Just slide the required nuts over the bolts until the switch is the correct distance from the face of the drywall. There are spacers you can buy from Home Repot or any electrical supply store which fit over the screws that attach the device to the box. They will build up the 1/2" or so gap between the surface of the gyp bd. and the box. If I mount the light switch box directly to the king stud of the doorway, the door trim will interfere with the switch plate, so I wanted to bump the box out by putting a short scrap of 2x4 between the box and the king stud. Is there anything in the NEC that prohibits that? That's common practice.
stud in wall where elect box goes??
I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall. There are boxes made that are of a thicker material and less likely to flex. Others have a tab on the side away from the stud that a false stud can be screwed to to support the far side. For larger gang boxes there are support wires that attach to the studs.
That is why some electricians go to trouble to nail a spacer block on every stud with a plastic box. The dry wall man will not likely jump over extra 1.5 " from where he has been hitting a stud. With an air nailer and box of blocks it doesnt take much time
Problem is- exactly where I want to put the electrical box to hang the wall light is a wall 2×4 stud. what can I do – use one of those thinner electrical boxes and cut out part of the face of the stud with Mr Sawzall? Or use a round 1/2" deep pan box & cut out drywall only and mount to the stud surface . I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with the switchplate? If the door is designed to swing into the structure you may want to reconsider the idea of placing an electrical outlet right next to the hinge side of the door jamb. Things plugged in there could get pinched as the door swung all the way in.
Most likely reason for a deeper setback is drywall not being tight to stud. mudded, and painted..and the drywall screws pop through. If I recall, boxes like this provide several tabs for several potential drywall depths. It's essential to use the right one. Reinstall screws using sppropriate thickness spacers. Yes, I use regular nuts as shims that are just slightly larger than the bolts that secure the switches. Just slide the required nuts over the bolts until the switch is the correct distance from the face of the drywall.
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electrical box too close to king stud spacer block|deep boxes